The Tourmalet and the Aubisque by Motorcycle: Riding the French Pyrenees

The Spanish side of the Pyrenees has the long, flowing N-260. The French side has the legends: the Col du Tourmalet, the Col d’Aubisque and a string of passes made famous by the Tour de France. Crossing the border from the Val d’Aran, you can ride four or five of them in a single day. This guide covers the best French Pyrenees passes for motorcyclists, how to link them into a route from Spain, when they are open and what to know before you go.

The French Pyrenees passes at a glance

• Col du Portillon (1,293 m): the border crossing from Bossòst in the Val d’Aran to Bagnères-de-Luchon, a tight, wooded climb that makes the perfect warm-up.
• Col de Peyresourde (1,569 m): open, sweeping bends between Luchon and Arreau, with wide views over green valleys.
• Col d’Aspin (1,489 m): short and beautiful, with free-roaming cows and horses near the summit.
• Col du Tourmalet (2,115 m): the highest paved pass in the central French Pyrenees and the most-climbed col in Tour de France history.
• Col du Soulor (1,474 m) and Col d’Aubisque (1,709 m): linked by a narrow ledge road cut into the cliffs of the Cirque du Litor, one of the most dramatic roads in the range.
• Col du Pourtalet (1,794 m): the border crossing back into Spain, down to Sallent de Gállego and the Valle de Tena.

The Col du Tourmalet

The Tourmalet is the one everybody wants to ride. From the east you climb from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan past the ski station of La Mongie, and from the west from Luz-Saint-Sauveur through the Gorges de Luz and Barèges. The road is well surfaced but busy with cyclists in summer, especially in the mornings, so ride it at a relaxed pace and enjoy the view from the top. The descent to Luz is the better side for riding: long, open and fast, with big views of the high peaks.

The Col d’Aubisque and the Cirque du Litor

West of Argelès-Gazost, the climb to the Col du Soulor is steep and twisting. Then comes the highlight: the ledge road from the Soulor to the Aubisque, which clings to the side of the Cirque du Litor with a sheer drop on one side and short, unlit tunnels cut into the rock. It is narrow and has very few barriers, so take it slowly and watch for sheep and cows on the road. From the Aubisque summit the road drops through the ski station of Gourette to Laruns.

A one-day route from the Val d’Aran

From Vielha, the classic day is a loop of the eastern French passes: cross the Col du Portillon to Bagnères-de-Luchon, ride the Peyresourde to Arreau, climb the Aspin to Sainte-Marie-de-Campan and finish over the Tourmalet to Luz-Saint-Sauveur. The distance is short, but with four passes and plenty of photo stops it fills the day. The next morning, ride the Soulor and the Aubisque to Laruns and cross back into Spain over the Pourtalet.

When are the French Pyrenees passes open?

The high passes are normally open from late May or June until October, depending on the snow. The Tourmalet and the Aubisque are usually the last to open and the first to close, and they can shut at short notice after an early or late snowfall. June to September is the safest window, and July is the busiest month, with cyclists and sometimes road closures for the Tour de France itself. See our guide to the best time to ride in Spain for the season month by month.

Tips for riding the French cols

• Watch for cyclists: on summer mornings the climbs are full of them, often riding side by side on the narrow sections.
• Expect animals: cows, sheep and horses graze freely on the Aspin, the Soulor and the Aubisque, and often stand in the road.
• Fill up in the valleys: there is no fuel on the passes, so top up in towns such as Luchon, Arreau, Luz-Saint-Sauveur or Laruns.
• Know the French rules: riders in France must wear approved gloves and carry a high-visibility vest, and speed limits and road signs differ from Spain.
• Dress for the altitude: it can be warm in the valleys and cold, wet or foggy at 2,000 m on the same day.

Which bike for the French Pyrenees?

The passes are tight and steep, so a light, agile bike is the most fun. The BMW F 900 GS is a great choice for solo riders, while the R 1300 GS or R 1300 RT is the better bike if you are riding two-up with luggage. Every Adventura tour includes the F 450 GS, with upgrades available. See the bikes.

FAQ

How high is the Col du Tourmalet?

The Col du Tourmalet is 2,115 m high, which makes it the highest paved pass in the central French Pyrenees.

Can you ride the Tourmalet and the Aubisque in one day?

Yes. Starting from Luz-Saint-Sauveur, you can ride the Tourmalet and then the Soulor and the Aubisque in a single day, but it is more enjoyable to split them over two days with a night in Luz.

Is the Col d’Aubisque road dangerous?

The ledge road between the Soulor and the Aubisque is narrow, with few barriers and short unlit tunnels. It is fine at a sensible pace in good weather, but take care with oncoming traffic and animals on the road.

Can I ride the French Pyrenees on a tour from Spain?

Yes. Our Pyrenees Grand Tour and Transpyrenees both start in Barcelona and cross into France for the Tour de France passes, with your BMW, hotels and GPS routes included.

Plan your Pyrenees tour

Start with the N-260 road guide for the Spanish side, compare all our Pyrenees motorcycle tours, or plan a bespoke Pyrenees route with us.